Do You Get The Most Out Of Your Sewing Patterns?

Buying a pattern is an investment. Read on for our top tips on how to get more value from your purchases.

Buying a pattern is the normal route to making a garment or item from fabric. Not everyone has the confidence or time to create their own, so paper or downloadable sewing patterns are commonplace.

Although I love designing patterns, I also enjoy purchasing patterns from other designers. Ultimately, it helps me make better patterns as I can experience and learn from the techniques used by different makers. Seeing things from the user's perspective enables me to improve my instruction writing to make following my pattern as simple as possible.

I am sure that I am not alone in wanting to get the best value from a purchase I have made, and this certainly applies to sewing patterns. Here are my top tips on how to get more from a bag or purse pattern by drafting adaptations.

Lengthen or Shorten

When making an item such as a pencil case or small zipped pouch, it is very simple to adapt the pattern and change the width of the bag.

1. Draw around the pattern piece you wish to change, for example, the front/back piece.

2. Fold and cut in half from top to bottom.

3. Tape a new piece of paper between the 2 cut edges, extending it by your chosen amount. Trim the top and bottom edges to align with the original pattern.

4. Remember to repeat this process with the lining pieces and use a longer zip.

Add a Full-Width Pocket

A full-width pocket is a simple adaptation which can change to look of your bag.

1. Take your pattern piece for the part of the bag you want to add the pocket to. Trace around it and cut out. Put the original away.

2. Use the new piece and draw a line where the top of the pocket will be. You can make the top edge straight or shaped, just remember to include a seam allowance beyond the line you have drawn. Cut out.

3. Use the new pattern piece to cut an exterior and lining from your fabrics. Stitch them together along the top edge. Turn and press, then topstitch to give a professional finish.

4. Lay the pocket on top of the bag piece and tack in place along the side and bottom seams.

5. Treat this as 1 layer and continue making the bag as per the pattern instructions.

Add a Flap

Even with a top zip, it can be an attractive feature to have a flap closure on a bag.

1. Measure the length required for the flap from the back of the bag to the front. Draw onto paper, adding a 1cm seam allowance all round. Cut out.

2. Cut your fabric using the pattern; you will need 2 pieces.

3. Insert a magnetic snap to the underside of the flap.

4. Place the flap pieces right sides together and pin.

5. Stitch together, leaving the edge that will be attached to the back of the bag open and unstitched.

6. Turn right sides out and press well. Fold the fabric in the open end to the inside and press. Topstitch the flap, but do not stitch the open end just yet.

7. Place the flap on the back piece of the bag, making sure it is centred and level. I would suggest placing the edge about 3cm down from the unfinished edge of the bag. Pin and then stitch securely in place. For a professional finish, stitch across the flap, pivot and stitch 5-6 stitches, pivot and stitch parallel to the first line, pivot and complete the stitching.

8. Continue to follow the pattern instructions. Once the bag is assembled, locate the position of the other part of the magnetic snap and insert this before you complete the bag lining.

Add a Wrist Strap or Loop

A wrist strap or hanging loop is a simple and handy addition to some patterns.

1. Decide on the length of the strap or loop and cut your fabric with a 4cm width.

2. Fold the fabric in half along the length and press.

3. Open out the fabric and fold the 2 long edges into the central crease. Press.

4. Fold again along the central crease so that all raw edges are on the inside and you have a folded strap piece 1cm wide. Topstitch along both long edges.

Option A - fixed strap

1. Stitch the strap in position in the side seam before assembling your bag.

Option B - detachable strap

1. Cut and fold the strap piece, but do not topstitch.

2. Make a smaller 6cm version of the strap, topstitch, and thread a 1cm D ring onto it. Fold in half and stitch in place in the side seam as above. Make the bag as per the instructions.

3. Thread a swivel clasp onto the long strap.

4. Open up the 2 ends of the strap and place them right sides together.

5. Stitch across the end with a 1cm seam allowance.

6. Re-fold the strap and topstitch along both edges.

7. Bring the clasp in line with the seam and stitch close to the clasp to secure it in place. As an alternative to stitching, you can also use a rivet to secure the clasp in position. Clip the clasp to the D ring on the bag.

We would love to hear of any adaptations you have made to a pattern, or perhaps you could share a photo of the finished product?

Happy sewing!

Suzanne, Charlotte and Rebecca